Rottnest Island

March 10, 2010

Trip Day - 32 At Ted and Jane's recommendation, I caught a ferry to Rottnest Island, the little vacation spot 12 kilometers off shore. There is regular, frequent high speed ferry service so getting there and back is a snap. Ted suggested I hire a bike and poke around a bit. It's quite a place, and I'm glad I went.

The ferry, 11am, was pretty much full. Reservations are encouraged and now I see why. Earlier that morning, after my morning swim, I overheard an older guy talking with his friends. He told them that he was supposed to be on Rottnest this morning but that he'd missed the early boat so he decided to come have a swim before catching a later one. He said he was one of the volunteer guides on the island. He was one of the first people I saw when I got off the boat, decked out in floppy hat, yellow tee shirt, cargo shorts and sandals (pretty much my uniform as well). A cadre of volunteers provides tourist support. They offer tours and or information from a centralized location near the ferry terminal. Pretty good system.

There are no permanent residents on Rottnest. It's purely a holiday destination. Lodging options include hotel/guest houses, condos and some detached homes. There's a small village, where the ferry pulls in, and aside from some service vehicles there are no cars. Pedestrians and bikers hold sway. I took a counter clockwise route, explored several of the nearby (although nothing is very far) cove beaches and then headed inland to see the gun emplacement. During WWII, this gun and others provided some defense from the threat of a Japanese invasion or attack on Fremantle. (note Perth's skyline in the background) To me it looked pretty vulnerable, but it never to my knowledge fired a shot in anger.

[Having said that, I just saw the Time Magazine piece on Tom Hanks and note that he and Stephen Spielberg have teamed up again to produce a 10 hour movie about the Pacific War. Bet it's good. If nothing else, this visit to this part of the world has opened my eyes to what has been a little understood campaign. I've always been fascinated with the war footage and photographs. Just didn't really get it.]

Grabbed a beer (ok, two) at a wonderful pub near the water where my and everyone else's food was eyeballed by a patrolling peacock, then headed back to the mainland.

Who should be on the ferry but the gent I'd seen in the morning. When we were getting off the boat I asked him if he'd gotten in trouble for being late. He laughed and said, no…and that he knew there would be adequate coverage. I actually think he recognized me, too. He's got about the same beard as I do. And we beardies notice each other…. Then we ended up taking the same train, getting off at the same stop. He lives in a beautiful house just up the street from my little apartment.

It was a great day trip!

Bump

March 9, 2010 Perth – Cottesloe

Trip Day 31

The foot hasn't gotten better. Since first pulling up lame in Sydney a week and a half ago, I've been taking it easy and waiting for it to offer me a sign that it was going to go back to being a useful but mostly ignored appendage. One that would carry me wherever I asked it to and only talk back as part of the achy chorus of sore muscles after a day's hike.

It's got ideas of its own, so today I got some help. Ted found a nearby physical therapist practice with an early morning appointment slot, and at 8.30 I met a bloke called a 'physio' around here. He took a good oral history from me, listening and taking notes the whole time; then did an exam and began to isolate the problem area. His concern was whether it was a stress fracture or a 'stress reaction,' a precursor to a fracture. As it happened, a sports medicine doctor is in the building and works closely with these physical therapists. My guy wanted his opinion and, frankly, I did, too. A young doc showed up soon, got the story (which told me how closely the physio had been listening) and did his own evaluation. They both concluded it wasn't a fracture but an injury to the fourth metatarsal joint. He offered me three choices: rest, a cortisone shot or further evaluation (xrays and more consults). Given that I'm out of here in a few days with physical activity on the agenda, I opted for the 'quick fix.' I got the shot and was on my way.

I also got a lesson in lacing my running shoes so as to relieve the pressure on the injury, and left the office feeling as though I'd gotten my money's worth. In the space of about an hour I'd been seen, evaluated, diagnosed and treated. I paid cash for the session, totaling $255AU. The deal with my insurance is to pay then seek reimbursement. More fun for when I return.

For the greater part of the day my foot has felt better, but at the moment I can't say that. It's barking and I'm wondering if I shouldn't have had them both look for more areas of trouble. The cortisone hasn't had time to work its magic, though, so I'll be patient. Should things not be looking better by Thursday afternoon I'll call them again and see about a follow-up on Friday.

Sculptures by the Sea

Perth – Cottesloe

March 8, 2010

Trip Day – 30 Monday.

I arrived here about this time a week ago and feel as if I've begun to know it, if imperfectly. At the moment, I'm sitting against the trunk of a Norfolk Island Pine just above Cottesloe Beach watching busloads of uniformed school children arrive to see the sculptures. As I've mentioned, as seriously as this culture takes its outdoors, it also respects safety. Every child is wearing a floppy hat. The order is, 'no hat, no play.'

[One of the groups, the largest (154 I just heard) I've seen by far, has just pretty much overwhelmed my position. I'm going to listen to the lecture before I retreat. They'll be here all day, are chaperoned by a large group of adults and are being encouraged to take their shoes off, get their cameras out (there'll be a photo competition) and to think about what they see what they like and don't and what the various sculptures means to them.]
This sculpture exhibition has captured my imagination, too, as you may have guessed from the last couple of postings and the pictures I've included. It's here for 3 weeks and will attract people of all ages and walks of life from all over vast region. Schools study sculpture and conduct workshops prior to bringing their students, the transportation authority provides shuttle services to/from the train, and They'll come for the sculptures and the beach scene and will take away memories and perhaps a desire to come back again and again. Here are some scenes I've shot during the past few days: (Which is not a sculpture...?)

I wonder if Hingham might not take a lesson.We've got a waterfront and we want to make it an attraction….

Perth – Cottesloe

Cottesloe Beach

Trip Day – 29

March 7, 2010

Sunday. Have been here a week already. (Ander and the hairy old guy).Time is flying by. Mornings filled with early swims that start slowly but leave me exhilarated. Took a bike ride today on my loaner. A good workout that worked up a bit of a sweat even in the dry climate.

The week started very hot, then morphed into milder and more seasonable temperatures [the a/c's been off most of the week and I've needed a blanket at night]. But with lower temps came wind. The Tuesday trip to Rottnest was the first indication of it, but Wednesday's sail on the Swan River with Murray and his brother Robin in their little 55 year old wooden sailboat (20' or so) proved it was WINDY. I liked to use the term 'sporting' when people asked me about landings in wind. Well, sporting it was on the Swan. a broad and heavily trafficked estuary. The wind hit 38 knots and, thoroughly soaked after turning upwind, we abandoned the race we were in. Skipper Rob started the cranky little diesel and we headed back to safe harbor. The engine quit of course, but not before it had helped us out of the one-meter waves and nasty gusts into calmer waters. The brothers, sailors since they could walk, said later at the bar that it was the heaviest weather they'd had the boat in. Swell (pun not intended).

We were all wet, but happy. I got happier when Murray saw me shaking, declared me hypothermic and gave me a fleece. All this happened at the Royal Fresh Water Bay Yacht Club and acquainted me with the world of sailing Down Under. [As well as to the local gripes about the use of the word 'Royal' in the club's name. Tradition rules for now, but there is pressure to eliminate it.]

After a couple (ok, four) of glasses of Shiraz at the bar, Murray invited me to his home for dinner. It was impromptu and one of the great highlights of the whole trip. He, his wife Shelly and daughter Helen live in a beautiful home close by. Murray called Shelly on his 'mobile' and said he was bringing me, a friend of Barney's, home and would she wave her magic wand over their dinner so there'd be enough. We had some of the lobster from the Rottnest trip in a light tomato sauce over linguine. There was plenty and it was delicious. Helen was there, too. She spent a semester at U of ME and had enjoyed a weekend in Boston. We had great conversation. Murray is a geologist and has a small collection of very old aboriginal artifacts that he's found while on expeditions in the bush.

The day and evening with Murray, his brother and family were purely wonderful. Here's this guy from the States who shows up on holiday and is embraced with warmth, acceptance and good cheer. He's invited into their home, and fed and watered (with great Australian wines). Wow. I'd be hard pressed to say I'd be comfortable doing the same.

The sailing meant that I missed one of the Schrauth kids' first big athletic events. It was the first rugby practice for Ander where he was going to be allowed to 'smash' some people. It was a big deal for him and he'd been looking forward to it for weeks. Ted said later that the whole scene was kind of crazy and that doing the sailing had been a better option.

Friday night I went with Ted and the girls to their basketball 'grading' session where their teams will be decided. The venue, built in the late 60's is due to be demolished soon. A brand new facility across the street is ready, but political issues persist and it isn't open yet. The old complex was hopping with hundreds of children and young adults practicing on perhaps 10 courts, another sign of the important role physical fitness plays in this culture. Madeleine has her choice of playing with her own age group or playing up with some older girls. Samantha will play with the under 14 group. I watched them both and was impressed. Maddie is a terrific ball handler and has deceptively quick moves. Sam is fast and quick. Both have great confidence with the ball and will be leaders on their respective teams.

I got a bit of an education about aboriginal students, too. A group of them play in this league. They're distinctive, of course, because they're about the only dark skinned people around. They're clannish, not surprisingly, and some come from hundreds of kilometers away for school. Broom, for instance is a seacoast village north of here that Ted would like me to see. 24 hours by car through the bush. Not this trip. Some of the girls are from Broom and other remote villages. They leave their families and villages for an education and then return. The politics and social issues surrounding the aboriginal people are ever present and complex. Two of the girls playing with Madeleine were superior athletes. One, a pretty, rail thin guard was everywhere on the floor. Her companion, heavier but quick and fast, was a great playmaker and shooter. Maddy wants them on her team and hopes for a third girl who I didn't see. Others, who were older, showed tell tale signs of having been seduced by a western high fat, fast food diet. Rolls of fat on 16-18 year old girls tell that story, but their smiles, attitudes and love of basketball offer another lesson in the role of sport as a great leveler.

Yesterday morning Ted, Ander and I went to a local farmers' market in the neighboring town. My request, of course, and it made me smile from the moment I set foot in the place. It looks very familiar. Even about the same size and composition as our Hingham market. We were there a little too late to pick up the lamb Ted wanted, but we brought home fresh plums, good lettuces, [think people worldwide aren't paying attention to what they eat? This is the queue for fresh, locally produced greens.] croissants, sauces, spices, leavened bread and Ander got some homemade ice cream. I told the croissant-folk that I wanted them to come to Boston. They're ready! So, too, was the Indian woman who sold me her curry sauce and told me how to prepare chicken. That's for Wednesday night. The conversations with the vendors were exactly the same kinds of conversations I have with most every vendor I've ever talked with: educational, optimistic, sincere and wonderful. If I'm in search of meaning during this trip I learned, again, how much I like this farmers' market business.

I'm sitting in the same café that I wrote at a couple of days ago. Sunday, approaching noon, the place is packed. The Sculptures by the Sea exhibition is drawing people to the beach by the thousands. I've had the opportunity to walk amongst the pieces now all week and watch adults and children alike looking and interacting with the sculptures. I can't imagine the organizers not thinking that they've had a tremendously successful show by the size of the crowds yesterday and today. Now it's off to lunch with the Schrauths and Jane's parents. They leave for a couple of weeks in Africa tomorrow and are taking the flock out. I'm invited.

Ted's got a full week planned for me coming up. He's been hitting work hard so he'd have some time this second week to play. We may take a road trip down south or he may have something else up his sleeve. One thing I've noted is that I really haven't gotten a sense of just how big this place is. I expect I will when I fly to Melbourne and go to Stephanie Speakman's farm a week from tomorrow, but would like to get a taste of it while I'm here. That may happen either by plane or by car this coming week. We'll see.

Next post will be concentrate on the sculptures exhibition.

Trip Day – 26, Perth

March 4, 2010

Cottlesloe, AU (outside Perth)

It's been a few days since I've had the time or inclination to post a new blog, but today's the day. A morning with no 'schedule.' Nice down time.

I'm falling in love.

Ted and Jane's children are the reason. Madeleine, 14 and the eldest, has taken over her parents' master bedroom and when she agrees with me she's got a pretty good deal her smile lights the large room. Ted is likely to need a baseball bat soon. Boys are not far off… I've got experience in these things.

Samantha, too, will break men's hearts. She's a year younger than Madeleine, beautiful, lithe and graceful both with and without a basketball in her hands. As do all of them, she has eyes and a smile that melt nearby objects.

Ander is Tom Cruise at 8. Ever in motion except when he's asleep, his naturally outgoing personality draws people to him like a magnet. We've explored his Pirates of the Caribbean collection, his Space books (he loves the Shuttle pictures) and his American coin collection. We've got lots more to do together before I leave.

Jane and Ted manage them all with quiet love and attention, and their dinner table is awash in good conversation, laughter, exploration of daily events and plans for what's next. I seem to be an honored and welcome guest and bear news of a foreign land that holds varying degrees of interest. There's talk of colleges in the states. Madeleine, strong maybe; Samantha, nope; Ander, You betcha! The states will be lucky to capture one or more. Any of them will bring much to us. They've all kept me busy since I've arrived. Beach in scorching heat on Day 1, getting settled and doing some essential shopping on Day 2, a trip to Rottnest (Rats' Nest in Dutch…named I'm told for a native marsupial that looks like a rat) Island off shore on Day 3 and a planned sail on the Swan River this afternoon with Murray, Jane's dad's close friend and excellent shipmate.

This is Barney, Jane's dad, and his craft preparing for our trip to Rottsnest. It's a 12 mile trip across semi-protected water to this uninhabited recreational destination. A license allows sport fishermen two crayfish (lobster) pots and since Barney and his wife are leaving for Africa next week he wanted to pull them.

The seas were 'heavy' in his and Murray's estimation. Murray was great to watch handle the seas and pull the pots at the same time. I'd have been overboard. I coiled line, managed to stay on my feet and not puke on the deck…or elsewhere, either. Had there been 3 pots to pull I'm not so sure. We grossed 10 (9 in one, 1 in the other) but only netted 4 after inspection of their bellies. A black spot on their underside means breeding and the penalties for keeping one of these are severe. Had one of them as an appetizer last night. It's lighter and seems less rich than our lobster. Great flavor.

Potts pulled, we headed for a pretty little bay and had a swim in crystal clear water. Then came tea (good coffee, thanks to a press, and cakes) on board before heading back to Fremantle. Barney and Murray, like many of the people I've met, are very interested and aware of American politics and wonder how Mr. Obama is doing. My stock answer, sincerely felt, is that the man inherited an extraordinary burden, has perhaps overreached but is learning and deserves more time before any conclusions are reached. The Massachusetts Scott Brown election story was well known, too.

The beach at Cottlesloe is spectacular. I've been up at 6 every morning and in the water soon after. It's been a long time since I've incorporated any kind of distance swimming into a pt program, but it makes real sense here. The water is August Nantucket (south beach) warm and at that time of day can be flat calm. I'm not in great shape, but have been setting and making reasonable objectives. As expected, I'm not alone out there. Dozens of people from young adult hood to old codgers like me are out there too.This is a relay race. School children are here with their teachers for their gym classes. There's a 'Sculpture by the Sea' exhibition going on at the beach, too. The artists and volunteers began setting it up Monday and it's pretty much in full swing now thru the weekend. Great fun in this sun drenched place. $10AU buys a catalogue and explains some of the unknowable themes. Some are very knowable, however. This is one of my favorites. AU apparently is referred to by Kiwis as the 'Land of Don't.' I must be used to signs (we sure have our share) but the many of the Aussies I've met see them proliferating and polluting the culture. This artist seems to agree. [Remember, you can enlarge these pictures by clicking on them. I think you should be able to read the print.] I'll post some more pictures in a Picassa photo album if I ever get around to it.

Here's the setting for this post. Not too hard to handle. That's my laptop open in the background.

Chapter 5 - Perth

Trip Day-23

Aboard QF575 Sydney to Perth

March 1, 2010

9.30 am. On my way to meet the Schrauth Clan: Madeleine, Samantha, Ander, Jane and, of course, Ted. The message on my Blackberry this morning from Ted was that they would all meet the airplane. That's quite a reception party and I'm honored. And excited. All the planning that began months ago is coming together just as I'd hoped.

The reason I'm over Australia Bight at this moment is an unavoidable reality, and I've had some emotional moments during the flight. We turned another page on the calendar today and head into the beginning of a new season of [northern hemisphere] rebirth. As Jim O'Hare described his own experience following Karen's death, I'm still riding that same roller coaster. Am doing my best not to make a scene, but it's likely that there are some people nearby who are wondering what's going on with the hairy old guy with the red eyes. [The Flight Attendant cabin leader, Margaret, just stopped at my seat since she knew I was retired from Delta and we went aft to chat a bit. I struggled for a while, told her what was going on and then managed to pull myself out of a pretty dark place as we talked aircraft and international flying. I thanked her for it.]

Sydney was great, but I'm not unhappy about leaving the BIG city for a smaller one. I'll be in Perth for two weeks, time to really settle in and get to know a place.

9.30 pm. Perth.

All the Schrauths were at the airport waving. A bear hug from Ted, a warm but wary (scruffy beard and all) one from Jane and shy but warm and wonderful smiles from all three kids. We grabbed my bags (nope I didn't have to pay the dreaded surcharge) and were off to start Chapter 5.

They live in a comfortable home on a plane tree-lined (think sycamore) street in a pretty, green and leafy suburb of Perth. Ted now has a mining marketing company which I will learn more about as the days go on, and Jane [MD] practices women's medicine a couple of days a week. The kids were out of school for Labor Day, one of AU's many public holidays.

We changed, grabbed some sandwiches and headed for the beach. It was in the low 100's, not a cloud in the sky and very little breeze. It's been a record setting season for heat. The Indian Ocean water is crystal clear and is at Nantucket temperatures. I'll be in it a lot I think. The beach is superb.

We've just had a lovely dinner and I've had a long day. Will take some pictures and write some more about what's going on tomorrow.

Sydney Retrospective

March 1, 2010 (Aboard QF575 Sydney-Perth)

The shoes!

• So here they are! Next to mine (inset). You decide the sillier, mine aren't exactly brogans. Where do his toes end? Mind you, these aren't truly broken in. They're just beginning to develop the 'curl' crease. You need to use your imagination. See them older and scuffed with that nice, permanent upward curl of the toe box. Maybe some could be green? Red? The guys who wear them are too big to be real elves, but there could be a secret society. I could ask the Symphony's concert master….
  

The kids!

• I've written only a bit about the youth in Sydney. It's a very grown up city, but certainly a magnet for youth. Potts Point is a magnet for a lot of youthful world travelers with its hostels and backpacker hotels. The kids in medium to large congregations seemingly got alone famously with each other and pretty much stuck together.
  

• I wish I'd taken a couple of pictures last Saturday night in King's Cross. On my way to dinner I followed an attractive backside (4" stilettos, glittery and form fitting short dress and long hair swinging with each step) for a block. She pulled out her cell phone and the first thing she said when someone answered was, "Are you drunk yet?" Sort of summed up Saturday night's agenda according to the locals. Kate and Sunny drove me home after dinner and there was a girl passed out in the bushes by their apartment. When we got to King's Cross the area swarmed with young people. Think Kenmore Square after the World Series. By Sunday morning things were cleared and cleaned up and presumably all those bodies were sleeping in.
  

Outdoors

• The weather was wonderful, and the city lends itself to being outdoors and in it. Whether it's walking or doing things on the water, people simply are simply drawn outside.
  

Taxis

• Clean, professional and polite. I was advised that as a single male I was expected to sit up front with the driver. Single women sit in the back. Fares were reasonable and cabs were plentiful. Air conditioning wasn't turned on…there wasn't a real need for it, but it would've been in the States.
  

Cleanliness

• There was litter, but mostly in certain heavily trafficked places. Rubbish pickup on Sunday even.
  

The Botanical Gardens, green space and urban living.

• There's no question for me that the amount of urban green space contributes to the great sense of livability in Sydney. Lots of parks, big, medium and small give great relief to what otherwise would be much too much asphalt and concrete.

Public toilets

• People here (and in other places I've travelled) seem to understand that if you want people to be out and about enjoying the environment and spending money those same people need facilities. They were clean, well lighted places all. No graffiti and well maintained.